tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61571405847591572102024-03-20T13:31:29.376-07:00Chris GibischChris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.comBlogger195125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-14348636442979967982014-11-22T09:04:00.001-07:002014-11-22T09:04:58.360-07:00BhutanI just returned from an a wonderful trip to Bhutan with my Uncle. As I'm learning, most people have no idea where that is. It is a small country found between China and Nepal in the Himalayan moutnains. The country is off everyones radar and pretty much focuses on itself regarding gross national happiness and natural resources. Its a country deeply influenced by Bhuddism and the rich history surrounding it. We spent two weeks seeing the sights, primarily temples and the landscape. We had a great time learning a lot and seeing amazing scenes.<br />
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Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-15436028799305350342014-11-22T08:39:00.001-07:002014-11-22T08:39:10.394-07:00Avalanche on Bora PeakIn early October Ben and I decided for a chance of pace, and rather than go rock climbing, we opted for some early season alpine climbing. Bora peak in Idaho 5 hours south of us, tops out a little over 12,000ft and we new the North face would be holding ice. We packed up the car and headed south. Recent snowfall had us a little concerned, but it was minimal so we decided to check out the face anyways. <br />
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We slogged in the 6 mile approach and neared the face. It looked pretty good and we figured we could safety manage the hazards. I the snow was too deep, we would just turn around. We began climbing and everything seemed great. The face was holding very little snow and we were front pointing up the permanent nevé. We were cruising, progressing around 1,000ft in 30 minutes. <br />
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We had just climbed through all the rock bands and were approaching a more broad section of the face when Ben started to pull away from me. I had stopped to rest and since we had't pulled the rope out yet, he continued on just a show ways. About 30ft from me he shouted, "Be careful when you get here, I don't like the way the snow feels." Then it happened….<br />
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I looked to him to respond when I saw the snow around him cut loose, then the entire slope went. Before he lost his footing I was screaming "self arrest." He fell perfectly in self arrest position, but the snow was caring him down, it was doing no good. I kept screaming, telling him what to do, for moral support know quite well he knew exactly what to do. As he neared the top of the cliff bands, I saw the snow parting around him. He was slowing down. I thought, "he's got this, he'll stop." Then he flew off the cliff and into the void out of sight….He was dead. <br />
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I knew this could be the only possible outcome, but I didn't believe it so I grabbed my tools and began frantically down climbing to find him. Imagining that he would be terribly hurt, I had to figure out how to get him off the mountain. Then moments after I began my down climb, I thought I heard a voice. I yelled to Ben and he responded. His voice was calm and he responded in a manner that I knew he was ok. In fact, just fine. I was in disbelief. I down climbed a bit further and spotted him shortly below me. <br />
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When I reached him, he was banged up, but relatively fine. Some cuts and a possible broken/sprained ankle. Down climbing was pout of the question so I began to lower him down the face. After about 5 60m lowers we were back on the approach slopes. I thought to myself, 'holy shit, its only just beginning." Ben had 6 miles to crawl/hobble since walking was impossible. <br />
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It was the most impressive slog I've ever been apart of. For 10 hours Ben butt scooted over moraine and hobbled through the woods. Unknowingly with a broken Talus bone. His spirits were good and between the screams of pain, we managed to laugh. His father sand good friend Frank met us near the car and helped us the final mile. After some pain killers and booze, we were asleep in the car and putting the day behind us.<br />
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-47705678913796207702014-11-22T08:01:00.003-07:002014-11-22T08:01:22.043-07:00Summer FunThis Summer was a slow one for me. In June I got injured, dislocating my left thumb and cutting it to the bone. Needless to say I was out for a bit. It wasn't until August that I was back climbing. In the mean time I spent the summer hanging out with friends, fishing, camping, and numerous other activities that Montana has to offer. There is always something great to do around here. I love it!<br />
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Fourth of July on Flathead Lake</div>
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Logan Pass with Michelle and the boys</div>
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Kintla Lake, GNP</div>
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Logan Pass, GNP</div>
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Flathead River, GNP</div>
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Trapper Peak with Brad</div>
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Baker Lake</div>
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Fishing the Bitterroot</div>
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Flathead buttress with Ben</div>
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Topping out on Snowcreek Wall with Michelle in Leavenworth</div>
Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-85689648744628150192014-05-24T09:18:00.001-07:002014-05-24T09:18:13.196-07:00Tanzania<div class="MsoNormal">
I struggle to maintain my position in the Land Cruiser as we
traveled down the rough dirt road. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shikuku,
John, Peter, and I have been on the road for 5 hours, leaving the pavement and
once again entering the remote bush country of Tanzania. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are heading south between Lake Manyara and
Lake Eyasi into the Datoga and Hadzabe territory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We meet up with our contact Momoya near Mang’ola
and continue on to his uncle’s home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
short while later, we step out of the vehicle and into a world that people have
only seen through a National Geographic magazine. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ecotourism is a booming industry and the effects are being
felt all around the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in the
most remote of places, the impacts are evident.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Tourism in Tanzania is spreading rapidly and companies are looking to
expand into new territories, providing the most remote experiences
possible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the Datoga and Hadzabe
people, the impact is being felt now. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The Datoga tribes are a nomadic pastoralist people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Living in mud and stick homes, they spread
out across the land grazing their cattle and goats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Hadzabe tribes on the other hand, are
hunter/gathers and thought to be the oldest of people originating in the Great
Rift Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite living very
primitive lifestyles, they have both been integrating and embracing western
culture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the reach of Ecotourism
expands, the tribes have established the Lake Eyasi Cultural Tourism
Program.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>John, Shikuku, Peter, and I are
here working with the organization helping the tribes embrace the change and
empower them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Momoya has invited us to meet his Datoga family before we
make camp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shikuku and Mamoya are long
time friends so we are getting an authentic invite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In front of us are his Uncle’s homes for his
large family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They invite us in and Momoya
teaches us about the Datoga people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
are sitting on small stools raising only a foot off the ground in a room lit only
by the sunlight entering the front door.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After and hour or so, we step outside continuing our conversation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the light of the setting sun, the women
have fun dressing us in traditional Datoga garb and jewelry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After many thanks, we part ways and head for
our camp and tomorrows classroom.<o:p></o:p></div>
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5:15am my alarm rudely wakes me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We pack a few things and meet up with Momoya.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is taking us to the Hadzabe for a
hunt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We drive deeper into the bush now
feeling even more incredibly remote.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After a 30-minute drive down a rough road, we park and begin to
walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The approach to camp is quick and
I soon see primitive leaf and branch thatched shelters, standing about 4 or 5
feet tall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To my right are hunters
sitting around a fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are dressed
as primitive as I could imagine; fur clothing complete with tails still attached.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However some have embraced modern clothing; wearing
a t-shirt or shorts. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before I know it,
they are grabbing their bows and are off for the hunt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We quickly make chase and do our best to keep
up through the bush.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the hunt,
the Hadzabe get a few small game animals and after an hour or two, we head back
to the village.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Amazed by their accuracy
with the bow, Peter and I must have a try.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They take us to their practice area and let us have at it. Having a
background with traditional bow hunting, Peter and I both nail the stump we are
shooting at and the Hadzabe explode with uncontained excitement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having won over the Hadzabe, we headed back
to camp for a day of teaching satisfied that we have gained some rapport with
the local tribes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Our plan is to teach a wilderness basic first aid
course.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By doing so we hoped to help
empower the local tribes to become leaders of the new Ecotourism heading their
direction. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tribes reside in such a
remote area, that the nearest medical facility is about an hour away and the
nearest airstrip, 2 hours away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the
students arrived, I am impressed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
expect to see people in traditional outfits, but they are all dressed up in
modern wear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have put on their best
outfits to be professional.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also learn
quickly that the Lake Eyasi Cultural Organization has sent some of their most educated
so all the student can speak English well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However it is only a nice treat for me since Shikuku is teaching the
coarse in Swahili.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have a nice
mixture of students primarily Datoga with a few Hadza and other tribes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The students are thirsty for knowledge and
attentively grasped everything Shikuku and John are teaching them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By surprise, we have the opportunity to learn
from them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tribes have survived for
thousands of years and have discovered their own remedies, which we happily
respect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After two days of education,
the students absorbed a plethora of knowledge and are hungry for more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They leave with the tools necessary to
provide medical attention for their clients in the most remote of
locations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most importantly, they
invited us back to spread the knowledge.<o:p></o:p></div>
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With a day at our disposal for driving home, we feel it best
to drive through the Ngorogoro National Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ngorogoro is a caldron resting at an altitude of around 7,000ft and
covering 100 square miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With lush
grass and fresh water it is know as a hot spot for wildlife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nearly all the major species popular for
viewing are in the crater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Peter and I
haven’t been there before, however Shikuku has led many tours through the
area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were thrilled to be getting a
personal tour from a friend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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The weather is looking poor but I stayed optimistic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we neared the crater rim the weather
begins to break.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A clear sky above the
crater blankets it in sunshine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We begin
the descent spotting wild life in the distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As we reached the crater floor it is apparent why this is such a popular
place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Animals are everywhere and of all
different types of species.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we drive
around the area I spot all types of animals I’ve only seen in magazines and
even a few I’ve never seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ngorogoro is
definitely not disappointing and as we started toward the exit, we are treated
with one of the most sought after sights…. a pride of lions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We parked the car only feet from these
magnificent creatures and enjoyed them in their natural environment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are even gifted with a rare scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Directly in front of us only ten feet away,
two lions begin to mate!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shikuku is
amazed and tells us that we have just witnessed a rare sight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With that we continued toward the exit and
back to Arusha.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This was truly an amazing 4 days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of the experiences were so incredible
that I am still in disbelief that they happened.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a world I only knew through National
Geographic and now I feel I have stepped through the pages and beyond.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These wonderful people have entered my life
and I theirs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My hope now is that I will
some day get to go back and once again say “Jambo” and maybe sling a few more
arrows.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Funding for the course was raised by Sentinel Outdoor
Institute through <a href="http://www.toreturn.org/">www.toreturn.org</a></div>
Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-31760357057889464762014-04-10T10:05:00.000-07:002014-04-10T10:05:03.738-07:00Arches National ParkLast week I was in Southeast Utah checking out Arches. Michelle's boys invited me on their spring break trip and how could I say no to that! It was a great time camping and generally just checking out the park with all of it's attractions. The desert never disappoints!<br />
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-30047112104088327132014-04-10T10:00:00.000-07:002014-04-10T10:00:09.788-07:00KAVU in FernieTwo weeks ago I got the opportunity to photography a KAVU clothing release event in Fernie Canada. It was an awesome weekend. The KAVU crew are some of the finest people I've ever met. We spent the weekend skiing, curling, partying, and flying around in a chopper photographing the athletes wingsuit BASE jump. It was a great weekend. Huge thanks to the KAVU crew.<br />
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-85552031267151150672014-04-10T09:53:00.001-07:002014-04-10T09:53:59.396-07:00Big Mtn, WhitefishShortly after climbing with Justin, I was back in the Whitefish area, this time with Michelle and her boys to ski Big Mtn. We spent the weekend with some of her friends, had a nice day on the mtn, and another towing the kids with a snowmobile. As always, it was great to get out of town and hang with friends.<br />
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-71644560992804178212014-04-10T09:50:00.000-07:002014-04-10T09:50:19.919-07:00Ice in the GNPBack in February, Justin and I skied into Snyder Lake with hopes of climbing the North face of Mt. Edwards. We were both itching for a good adventure, but the weather had other plans. The park had been seeing high wind events and coupled with large snowfall, shut us down due to the poor conditions. Plan B as always was the Brainstem wall on Mt. Brown. Conditions looked exciting up there, but it was a safe alternative a true alpine adventure. The ice appeared to be in super fun conditions, but while I was on it, realized it was going to be much more difficult than expected. Not to say it wasn't a blast. We worked our way through the crux and topped out on a wonderful climb. With the day fading away we made our way back to the car and headed for the Packer's Roost. That turned out to be an entirely new story….<br />
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Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-36170421701252652312014-01-29T14:28:00.000-07:002014-01-29T14:28:34.036-07:00Birthday TurnsWith the high pressure holding, Ben and I headed to the Flathead in search of some turns for my birthday. Like our last trip, we left town early with plans of driving and skiing the first day, then hooking up with Justin for day two. <br />
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To make things easy, we headed for Penrose peak on the south side of highway 2. It was a short approach to the basin where we had our first look at the peak. The recent warm temps coupled with high winds had ruined the north side for skiing. The now cold temps set up the snow like a sheet of ice. We skinned up to the pass for a look at the south aspect. Folks had already gotten some turns in on the south side and they looked good. The sun was blazing down on us and we couldn't have been happier. The valleys were covered in a sea of clouds while we were basking in the sun. We got our turns in down the south aspect which turned out to be great. Back up the pass before a final run back to the car. Like last time, we made it back to Whitefish in time for dinner.<br />
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The next day Justin joined ups and we decided to ski Stanton peak in Glacier National Park. This time the weather wasn't looking too positive but we continued on anyways. Despite talk of bailing, we kept trudging upward for a little skiing. Eventually we reached the final ridge line when the clouds began to break up. It revealed blue skies and a stunning landscape. Clouds were passing by among the peaks occasionally whiting us out. We began our descent towards Lake McDonald just as the clouds broke for the final time. We had great turns nearly all the way to the lake and lucked out with a great sunset when we got there. <br />
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I couldn't have asked for a better two days. Great turns with great friends. <br />
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-32331542199918237532013-11-28T17:47:00.000-07:002013-11-28T17:47:52.071-07:00Season Opener<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ice season is taking its sweet time to make it to Missoula, but with conditions looking promising in Glacier National Park, Ben and I decided to check it out. We left Missoula at 5am Tuesday hoping to squeeze a climb out of the day. We made great time and were leaving the parking lot by 8. Approach conditions were amazing; almost zero snow all the way to the lake. At the back of the lake we found a boot track, most likely from climbers over the weekend. They were headed towards the route Memorandum, so we decided to take advantage of the easy travel and climb that particular route. </div>
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Ben on Avalanche Lake</div>
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By around 11:30 I was racked up and leading up. The ice was thick and gooey. For the sake of time we stretched out each pitch and topped out on the climb after 3 pitches. It had been a long time since I had climbed the route and had almost forgotten how awesome it is. After 3 quick rappels we were back at the packs and beginning the walk out. Everything went smoothly and before long we were on our way to meet Woody and Lexi in Whitefish for dinner.</div>
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Looking back at the lake</div>
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The next morning Justin joined us and the three of us headed back to Avalanche lake to climb the Inner Thigh. Like the day before, the approach went incredibly smooth. We had a later start so we were a bit behind schedule, but not too concerned. It was noon by the time we reached the base of the route and it looked great. A hidden corner system choked with ice. </div>
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Approaching</div>
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Woods began up and made short work of the first pitch which shares the start with Monument. Ben and I moved the belay up the snow slope, then he began his pitch. It was an awesome groove up the corner system for about 60 meters. When I reached his belay, he informed me we were a little off route. From the looks of it, a few tricky moves would get us back on route. </div>
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Beginning of the season packing error</div>
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I took the lead and began the traverse. It was a few balance moves run out from the gear, but really not too bad. As I turned the corner and began up the steepest part of the pitch, I had trouble getting my left pick to stick and realized it had broken in half! A moment of concern rushed over me, then I realized I just had to finish the pitch. It was easing off and the ice was good so I was still able to get the busted pick to stick…good enough I guess. With the broken pick, I cut the pitch short and built a belay. The guys cruised up to me and with the day coming to an end, we decided I would continue up to finish the climb. Ben lent me his tools and I climbed the last bit to a great belay.</div>
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Last pitch of Memorandum</div>
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As the light was fading, we made 3 rope stretching rappels and made it back to our packs. By this point it was finally dark so we took our time and began the hike out. We worked our way down the classic descend through slide alder and creeks eventually ending up at the crag ice cliff band. After some searching, we found a good tree to rap off of. 70 meters into the pitch black seemed like one of the longest rappels I've ever done and thankfully the ropes reached the ground! Now it was easy going.<br />
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Ben starting up the Inner Thigh</div>
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We began the easy hike back to the car and when we reached the lake, shut off our lamps…. The night sky was so beautiful. Filled with stars and not a sounds other than the ice occasionally expanding and cracking. We made it back to Whitefish, grabbed some dinner, and hit the road for home. In bed by 2am and up for work by 6am. A rough day now, but all worth it. <br />
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Ben (Inner Thigh)</div>
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Justin topping out (Inner Thigh)</div>
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One more rap to go!</div>
<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-35626974887692467582013-11-22T18:54:00.000-07:002013-11-22T18:54:17.954-07:00Escaping the Shoulder Season<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the weather slowly turning towards winter, we've be stuck in quite an extended shoulder season. Temps are cold, but its dry. Without any snow or ice, its been challenging to have some fun outdoor recreation.</div>
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Justin and his wife Lexi suggested a trip to Vegas for rock climbing in the sun. Without much hesitation, I booked my tickets. It turned out to be one of my best trips down there. Super casual, enjoying the sunshine and climbing. We spent most of our time sport climbing, but manage one longer route. It was a fantastic trip filled with great climbing, awesome food, and amazing company. </div>
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Sasha in the corridor </div>
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Sasha</div>
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Sasha at the Gallery</div>
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Lexi</div>
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Me</div>
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Justin</div>
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Justin and Lexi</div>
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Me</div>
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Me</div>
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Sasha</div>
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Lexi</div>
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Lexi</div>
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Sasha</div>
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Justin</div>
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Justin and Lexi</div>
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Me bouldering</div>
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Approaching pine creek</div>
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Justin starting up</div>
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Summit shot</div>
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Another casual morning</div>
<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-2085744240951178842013-10-22T07:11:00.000-07:002013-10-22T07:11:15.474-07:00 Ice fields Parkway - Canada Once again with fall temps beginning to drop, Jeff and I got the itch to climb in the alpine and headed North. We had our sights set on several objectives, but every time they came into sight from the road, we could see the routes weren't quite yet in condition. We were a touch to early in the season. With our hopes of alpine climbing crumbling, we took one more look at another line. <br />
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Since we were in the area, we checked out Slipsteam. Slipstream is a 3,000ft ice route which is infamous for its incredible high objective danger. Snow slabs and a serac band capping the route have killed many people. It has been climbed many times though despite the danger. Proper conditions and plenty of luck seems to be necessary.<br />
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Conditions looked perfect so we packed up and headed for the base to camp. We were getting psyched! Weather was looking perfect and there was very little activity from the sera band. As the day came to an end we crawled into the tent to escape the cold. Like clock work, the catabatic airflow started, and it was a fierce wind. As the hot air left the valley floor, cold air from the ice cap flowed in to fill the void. With 400 square miles of ice directly behind us, the temperature gradient was high and the wind came ripping in. For three hours we laid in our bags holding the tent up. 40-50mph gusts were beating down our little tent. I felt it was just a matter of time before the tent ripped open and the trip was over. Once again, like clock work, when the temperature gradient equalized, the wind stopped. We cooked dinner and prepared for an early start.<br />
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5:00 am, the alarm rudely cut into the silent night. Surprisingly it wasn't too cold out making getting up much easier. We ate, packed and were moving within 30 minutes. It was a beautiful morning. The full moon illuminated the world of ice and rock we were surrounded by. Ice crystals flickered in the moon's light and a slight wind reminded us of the crisp cool morning temps. As we climbed through the ice fall on the glacier, the winds began to pick up and lenticular clouds began forming in the distance. We could hear the winds roaring above us and watch snow being ripped off the summit. As conditions worsened, we had to make the difficult decision bail and head home. Conditions we almost perfect, but for such a route, we needed them to be perfect. <br />
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The sun began to rise as we turned around illuminating the glaciers in a pink glow. Vortices of snow lifted from the surrounding summits lit pink in the morning light and seracs plummeted to the glaciers below as beautiful avalanches. I was disappointed to be leaving, but so psyched to be living in the now and witnessing all the beauty and splendor the mountains have to offer. <br />
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The tent was a little deformed when we got back, but still there. We broke camp and headed for the car. On the way back we took a quick break at a glacial cave to have some fun. After a little ice bouldering we were back at the car and headed home for warmer temps and fall rock climbing.<br />
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Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-56246776341234766572013-09-18T14:51:00.002-07:002013-09-18T14:51:16.799-07:00East Face of Mt. Gould (Attempt)
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Glacier National Park is never without adventure and every
time I go there, I leave having learnt something new. I have been there several times climbing the
greater peaks and have come to realize that the most dangerous objective
hazards aren’t the rock and icefall, but the people, concession food, and
wildlife.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9mHEmZ_rOZwk51dK4CBbp9DZ_Ng3dfbpw9Z3wQjjWqagAUPCbAVrTR-66B-xQ-S30P8sBfpjZTzpsBpsazaCBR9QrYLO1dUpHJinu4ck7P34vnoZmBTsVpD6kmtqk-GQyQyJNrYWkCoG/s1600/DSCN2048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9mHEmZ_rOZwk51dK4CBbp9DZ_Ng3dfbpw9Z3wQjjWqagAUPCbAVrTR-66B-xQ-S30P8sBfpjZTzpsBpsazaCBR9QrYLO1dUpHJinu4ck7P34vnoZmBTsVpD6kmtqk-GQyQyJNrYWkCoG/s320/DSCN2048.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p> St. Josephine Lake</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik0Qsj1v015UMCbvawriPc5lithisHmA-sBb_g50SGJd4LjTto5b8Up-nc0Tw5qfvIG_OOt5fB71uetKI3ZRCpiVp8JrQrdLO9MxmTM60E5oVwkTXz5iKs1AOeWWE4AgE6WULdS0ZrM1Pl/s1600/DSCN2061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik0Qsj1v015UMCbvawriPc5lithisHmA-sBb_g50SGJd4LjTto5b8Up-nc0Tw5qfvIG_OOt5fB71uetKI3ZRCpiVp8JrQrdLO9MxmTM60E5oVwkTXz5iKs1AOeWWE4AgE6WULdS0ZrM1Pl/s320/DSCN2061.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Justin reaching the base of the route</div>
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If you are like Justin and I, and choose an objective in the
East side of the park, you must first survive “Going to the Sun” road. 48 miles of winding mountainous road filled
with clueless tourist. This is like
running the gauntlet. For 48 miles you
are dodging tourist who are both looking at the scenery and not paying
attention to the road, or just too scared of the road to stay in their own
lane. Pinned between a rock wall and a
large drop on the other side, you’re left with very few options and the driving
can get sporty. If you do survive the
drive and need time to unwind with a beer and some food, good luck.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq705wbOtSgsHGiXCIfJus6ApAzloI1wpIkZDYrElx-r37bw1s5pLvXyZnxnpuLp6ndNFy7pwjB_wWDB3waQGPvCgdbYeWouoqhUHjMKs3AqdC099wC8oQA4VjwXZh5WSJRc02r2dkUOdW/s1600/DSCN2064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq705wbOtSgsHGiXCIfJus6ApAzloI1wpIkZDYrElx-r37bw1s5pLvXyZnxnpuLp6ndNFy7pwjB_wWDB3waQGPvCgdbYeWouoqhUHjMKs3AqdC099wC8oQA4VjwXZh5WSJRc02r2dkUOdW/s320/DSCN2064.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Beginning the climb</div>
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Every time I eat at one of the concessions, I am amazed at
how horrible the food is. Generally 2
million people pass through the park every year and spend a ton of money on
lodging and food only to be served slop.
As Justin experienced, it can be crippling. Now that you are stressed from the driving
and nauseous from the food, its time to survive the approach. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilR2hxwfdX4maOBikm5s-r6s9-lqi27U-e5EJVEKGLNWgCZBVdhXm9BJN8CqUQ6aNa2I2FemOOYh4mGUS_gf1HTb2U4pjPBmQhtjbV2Cxi0cCHLCE5mggjMslB2k-XMxjmET4AhZc-27Us/s1600/DSCN2051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilR2hxwfdX4maOBikm5s-r6s9-lqi27U-e5EJVEKGLNWgCZBVdhXm9BJN8CqUQ6aNa2I2FemOOYh4mGUS_gf1HTb2U4pjPBmQhtjbV2Cxi0cCHLCE5mggjMslB2k-XMxjmET4AhZc-27Us/s320/DSCN2051.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<o:p> East Face of Gould</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRqgPKuPJ7aYpJp7BNRe2XIaD4F-k7HYnQz0S6yQkBBpL8zIDToDucDxdZ0oM-3D5603AdMRgMHxbM5UVVi-8kWGX2aCLdBui_kKg3_yx_nFQHBw8ohx8mruWSi9Ce5niJKp67kHWLLXq8/s1600/DSCN2070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRqgPKuPJ7aYpJp7BNRe2XIaD4F-k7HYnQz0S6yQkBBpL8zIDToDucDxdZ0oM-3D5603AdMRgMHxbM5UVVi-8kWGX2aCLdBui_kKg3_yx_nFQHBw8ohx8mruWSi9Ce5niJKp67kHWLLXq8/s320/DSCN2070.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Just below our high point</div>
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With one of the highest concentrations of grizzly bears in
the lower 48, the threat of an encounter is a realistic one. Most of that concentration is in the Many
Glacier area, exactly where our objective was. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Most of the time the bears don’t concern me much, but I’d be
lying if I said I wasn’t nervous this time.
We began hiking in the dark around 6am trying not to think about the
bears and make good time. We were about
15 minutes down the trail when through my dim headlamp; I caught the glimpse of
something big and brown. In a panic I
began backpedaling and raised my bear spray.
I couldn’t make out what it was, but I was preparing for a charge. Finally Justin shined his brighter headlamp
on the animal and we could see it was just a moose. Still incredibly dangerous, but not as
terrifying. Eventually a calf showed up
and began nursing. It was an incredible
sight, but we were in a hurry. The
stubborn moose took 20 minutes to haze off the trail eating into our precious
day. The rest of the approach went with
out incident. We listened to elk bugling
in the morning light and got surprised by a goat when we reached the base of
the climb.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOo9FAcIJzW-rUFzTqY83yadKnFy429nNb0J1SpGFW0lUfGzWukn1dXR0Ssn7qDHswKG6oaJOUF6TmzJ8i3mvSuYeHp4z4i7SletevMWuaZbNVmXbbeWPQJQ3hLMKxPdGm1lop-hz2ekhD/s1600/_DSC0152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOo9FAcIJzW-rUFzTqY83yadKnFy429nNb0J1SpGFW0lUfGzWukn1dXR0Ssn7qDHswKG6oaJOUF6TmzJ8i3mvSuYeHp4z4i7SletevMWuaZbNVmXbbeWPQJQ3hLMKxPdGm1lop-hz2ekhD/s320/_DSC0152.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hidden Lake</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXHFmDyrh9uvANJTKGF3BmkpWeMLkTyeVgD5XplmM_5008g6nAVEVmWCmthB75ye5qOErFcITrwYvHQwSuT7nQHvOz40IcGiQE7ca-m6hsAZQ95ibDqMBd91_KXvQ7gCRyPp-kuYbk2Qj9/s1600/_DSC0156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXHFmDyrh9uvANJTKGF3BmkpWeMLkTyeVgD5XplmM_5008g6nAVEVmWCmthB75ye5qOErFcITrwYvHQwSuT7nQHvOz40IcGiQE7ca-m6hsAZQ95ibDqMBd91_KXvQ7gCRyPp-kuYbk2Qj9/s320/_DSC0156.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The face looked more moderate than I expected. Quickly my nervousness gave way to
excitement, but by the time we crossed the snowfield to the rock, Justin was
doing all he could not to let the last night’s dinner come back up. Despite feeling worked, he began
climbing. We had only been soloing for
about 20 minutes when we spotted dark clouds moving in. 500 feet up the face; we weren’t yet at a
point of total commitment. Between the
poor looking weather heading our way and Justin being sick, we decided it was
best to leave this climb for another day.
<o:p></o:p></div>
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We enjoyed the scenery as we hiked out feeling luck to live
in such a beautiful state. With the
remainder of the day, we check out other spots in the park (and yes, saw a
bear) and worked our way back to Whitefish where we could get some good and
safe food.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Great Northern Peak</div>
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Justin on the summit</div>
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<br />
<!--EndFragment-->Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-56703625565244927502013-08-10T16:00:00.002-07:002013-08-10T16:00:56.616-07:00The Hulk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoBb-p-YPaF-nU5RWFhWKY8S45yLxEUlSb1cojaRymSmQ8ACf-2RcwbQw3lPMUHM9GgGPmBUE9KuQ6w326U0kbvrg4SEIVBxfYFAQCHvPNrsHwmY9o4fiPr3ezFrLQbNK3_BCaWjJ2SiT/s1600/_DSC0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoBb-p-YPaF-nU5RWFhWKY8S45yLxEUlSb1cojaRymSmQ8ACf-2RcwbQw3lPMUHM9GgGPmBUE9KuQ6w326U0kbvrg4SEIVBxfYFAQCHvPNrsHwmY9o4fiPr3ezFrLQbNK3_BCaWjJ2SiT/s320/_DSC0001.jpg" width="320" /></a>Every aspiring alpine rock climber knows of the Hulk. Time and time again, we open the mags to see
images of Peter Croft stemming his way up the perfect granite dihedrals that
the Hulk is know for. Drawn to these
aesthetic lines, we image what it is like to tiptoe our way up them. For Kyle Neeley and I, we decided this year
it was time to get a first hand look.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFwujif-SpsTu-SSuqwE-ZmfIw12dEhHc-RkRKInCdkiyDYrLTJJ06794TqbA0dpWOaY0tghN-gwj9QAO-zYUP-a2UzwIZYPNZooVty2Eu2vTrFdoEJzNA4XZhDNIHz9MtX3KEq-_MS0I/s1600/_DSC0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFwujif-SpsTu-SSuqwE-ZmfIw12dEhHc-RkRKInCdkiyDYrLTJJ06794TqbA0dpWOaY0tghN-gwj9QAO-zYUP-a2UzwIZYPNZooVty2Eu2vTrFdoEJzNA4XZhDNIHz9MtX3KEq-_MS0I/s320/_DSC0003.jpg" width="320" /></a>After 16 hours in the car, we found ourselves at Twin Lakes
and the trailhead to the Hulk. We gather
the necessary permits and began the hike in.
The approach turned out to be mellow, heading up the valley to Barney
Lake before turning left for a slight grunt to the upper basin. After 2.5 hours we were at camp and the base
of the Hulk. The granite fortress
stretched tall above us and all of the striking features we had seen in mags
were now at our fingertips. </div>
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The short approach gave us plenty of time to crag a little
so we decided to start out with a stinger: Venturi Effect. Kyle’s goal was to take a look at the crux
pitch (3<sup>rd</sup>) and possibly give it a go. From the moment you leave the ground, Venturi
Effect is on ya. Very delicate smearing
and stemming kept forcing our best technique.
I took on the second pitch, which started out quite casual then became
real. More delicate moves with spaced
out gear kept me on edge. Eventually we
were at the base of the crux pitch and looking up one of the most impressive
stem corners either of us had seen.
Unfortunately it was baking in the heat and we were tired from the other
two pitches. We decided to head back to
camp for shade and some dinner.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The next day we got on Sunspot. An amazing 7-pitch climb up one of the
stunning dihedrals. It shares the start
with Positive Vibrations then branches off left. It follows an amazing finger crack up the
dihedral for four long pitches. Barely
letting up at all, we stemmed and lie-backed our way up the beautiful
line. Clouds were building over the
valley so rather than continue to the true summit, we stopped at the top of the
difficulties and began our descent. A single
70m line allowed us to rap another route and quickly reach the base. <o:p></o:p></div>
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For day 3, it was time for another classic, so we decided to
climb Positive Vibrations. This time
after the first two pitches, we branched out right towards a slight chimney
pitch. This route followed closely to an
arête giving it great exposure. Different
from Sunspot, Positive Vibrations threw at us a variety of climbing
challenges. We worked our way up some
amazing pitches: stem corners, finger cracks, and some of the best granite hand
cracks I’ve ever climbed. After 9
pitches of brilliant climbing, we reached the top with soar hands and
feet. Again, with the 70m rope we were
able to rap down most of Venturi Effect and reach the base without a
problem. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Our final day turned out to be just a descent day. Hoping to climb Red Dihedrals, we decided it
best to pass when we woke to find 4 other parties gearing up for it. It was at the bottom of our priority list and
we were very please with what we had already climbed. After a casual morning, we packed up and hit
the trail. Eventually back at the car,
we mentally prepared ourselves for the grueling drive home. We drove through the night and after another
16 hours on the road all strung out on energy drinks, I found myself back in
Missoula and easing back into reality. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Pitch 1, Venturi Effect</div>
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Pitch 2, Venturi Effect</div>
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Pitch 4, Sunspot</div>
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Pitch 5, Sunspot</div>
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Pitch 6, Sunspot</div>
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Pitch 7, Sunspot</div>
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Pitch 1, Positive Vibrations</div>
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Pitch 4, PV</div>
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Pitch 5, PV</div>
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Pitch 6, PV</div>
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Final pitch, PV</div>
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Nothing like a peanut butter burrito when you are all out of water!</div>
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<br /></div>
Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-81445424502348034512013-07-19T13:50:00.002-07:002013-07-19T13:50:45.750-07:00Mt. Temple<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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The North Face of Mount Temple first caught my attention
about 13 years ago while on my first alpine trip to Canada. It’s hard not to get captivated by this
monster. With a nearly 5,000ft North
face capped by seracs, it dominates the Lake Louise landscape and calls to all
alpinist. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> North face of Mt. Temple</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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Ben scouting the route from Lake Annette</div>
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Timing had finally worked out and I was on my way North with
Ben Brunsvold to attempt Temple. Mid
season conditions made it apparent that the best route choice would be the
Greenwood/Jones. It’s a rock rib left of
center on the face, protected from the obvious objective hazards above. I had some friends climb it a few years back
and they were forced to bivy on route, so we decided it would be best to camp
at the base the night before and bring the bivy gear on route. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Nightfall from our bivy at Lake Annette</div>
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Ben low on the route</div>
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We had a fairly sleepless night due to pikas trying to get
in our gear and worries from the recent bear activity in the area. 5 am came too quickly and I was rudely awakened
by the alarm blaring in my ear. While I
was discovering that our gear made it through the night, I was startled by
voices. I scanned the landscape and then
spotted them, two climbers hiking through the talus. “We are totally screwed”, I thought. There was only one route they would be going
for and sure enough it was the same we planned on climbing. With the objective hazard high and the loose
nature of the rock, I thought it would be a horrible idea to follow these other
climbers. After some serious thinking,
Ben and I decided to assume the responsibility and risk associated with climbing
behind another party. We quickly packed
up and headed for the base of the route.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ben mid-route</div>
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Sunrise from our bivy</div>
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The other group had an hour start on us so we started
climbing as soon as we reached the base.
One short pitch got us to easy forth class climbing and we put the ropes
away. As we were scrambling up, we
noticed the other guys climbing a dihedral.
There was some easier looking terrain to the right so we headed that way
and continued soloing. After about 12
pitches, we worked our way back to the prominent rib and pulled the ropes back
out. We had passed the others and were
about a pitch and a half in front of them.
Ben and I started dispatching pitch after pitch of loose limestone
rock. Route finding proved to be
difficult from time to time, but we were always able to work our way through
it. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> The final summit slopes </o:p></div>
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Finally cramponing up</div>
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Eventually after enough route finding issues, the other guys
caught up to us and we began working as one team. Despite have 3 different route descriptions;
it still wasn’t obvious where to go. The
others (Mikael and Rafal from Canada) were pushing for a day ascent, but
weren’t insisting on passing, so I continued to lead the group. We finally reached a feature on the wall that
lead us to believe we were close to the summit slopes. I traversed, rappelled, traversed, and climbed
a pitch just as the light was fading. I
belayed everyone up to this meager ledge I was on just as darkness overtook
us. It appeared we were one pitch from
the summit slopes, but we were now on a ledge that could support a four-person
bivy. The decision was made to call it
quit and settle in for the night. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Rafal on the summit ridge</div>
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Summit!</div>
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Mikael and Rafal were without bivy gear so we spread the 2
bags that we had between the four of us.
It was a cold uncomfortable night, but we all managed to get some
rest. When the sun began to rise at 5am,
we knew it was time to get going. We
were all eager to get to the summit slopes and off the wall. Rafal climbed through the final barrier and
brought us all up. We could finally see
the summit slopes and were just some scrambling from them. We quickly packed the ropes away and
scrambled to the snow. <o:p></o:p></div>
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View from the top of Moraine Lake</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt9bkK_JACR82iQT51sXXM870A8azsTqK-NH1zNuHRvs9-vGirc1dAZK5hAbNYsTd7W_N05RfOtjoeaadx84_Bt4__ndlGZPELVxW1W9HyWR7sMRzNv-Tp-mKfLuvYRkt08FBc9H3zTDC9/s1600/DSCN1981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt9bkK_JACR82iQT51sXXM870A8azsTqK-NH1zNuHRvs9-vGirc1dAZK5hAbNYsTd7W_N05RfOtjoeaadx84_Bt4__ndlGZPELVxW1W9HyWR7sMRzNv-Tp-mKfLuvYRkt08FBc9H3zTDC9/s320/DSCN1981.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ben enjoying success on his first Canadian giant</div>
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Once we had our crampons on, the going was easy. We roped up and trudged up the ridgeline to
the summit. It was 9:30 in the morning
and we were psyched to be heading down to food and water. After a 3-hour descent we were at Moraine
Lake and Rafal’s amazing wife showed up with food, water, and beer. We laughed as we walked past the tourists who
had no idea what we just experienced.
But unfortunately for us, it was time to return to that same comfy
reality. Until next time….<o:p></o:p></div>
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Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-45659550183272312552013-07-19T13:31:00.001-07:002013-07-19T13:31:20.518-07:00Lake Koocanusa <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Forth of July weekend was Linsey's b-day weekend so she and a few of us headed to her favorite place to climb...Lake Koocanusa. We enjoyed the slow drive up there hitting a bar along the way and eventually getting to camp shortly before dark. It was a nice weekend filled with climbing and swimming. Its always a nice way to spend a few days with friends.</div>
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Linsey</div>
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Noxon bar</div>
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Jessica</div>
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Kelly and Linsey</div>
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Gunner</div>
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Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-761939630685085872013-07-19T13:24:00.001-07:002013-07-19T13:24:14.707-07:00Flathead River<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A few weeks ago Justin and Lexi asked me if I'd like to join a trip on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. Well it was a no brainer and I was quickly in the car headed north. This was a stretch of river I wanted to float for a long time. Justin and I planned on hiking in 14 miles to Shaffer Meadows while the others flew in with the gear. The hike was pleasant with a few showers and we reached the meadow shortly after everyone else had. We set up camp and enjoyed a beautiful night in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.</div>
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In the morning we packed up and hit the river. We spent two days covering 25 miles, running long stretches of class III and IV rapids. It was a blast and I'm looking forward to the next time I can do a trip like this. </div>
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Justin and I hiking in</div>
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Camp at Shaffer meadows</div>
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Justin and Lexi</div>
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Justin and Spanky</div>
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The Flathead at Shaffer Meadows</div>
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Camp 2</div>
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Spanky having a blast</div>
<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-16449836390317678452013-06-08T12:45:00.005-07:002013-06-08T12:45:33.368-07:00Skiing Mt. Rainer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It had been years since my last attempt on Rainer, but with
a weather forecast matching up perfectly with my schedule, I thought; “What the
hell, I’ll try it again, but this time ski down.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p>Muir snowfields </o:p></div>
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Camp Muir</div>
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With all the success I’ve had around the world climbing, Rainer’s
summit has always eluded me. Several
attempts ended with poor weather and I never really gave the mountain much
thought afterwards. Yeah it would be
cool to stand on top, but it really didn’t matter much to me. Last week when the weather forecast looked
great, Ben suggested we try to ski Rainer.
It sounded like a fine idea. Even
if it didn’t happen we would still have a good time. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Sunset and sunrise from camp</div>
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Our friend Blake joined us and after a quick pack job
Sunday, we were on the road. We spent
the night at Rimrock Lake then drove into the park the next morning. Neither Ben nor Blake had been to Rainer
before and both were psyched at the magnitude of the mountain. We got the necessary permits and casually
packed for the ascent. It was around
noon when we finally left the car and began the slow climb to Camp Muir.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Blake working his way up</div>
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It’s a casual ascent up the Muir snowfields to camp at
around 10,000ft. We got up there with
plenty of time to relax, cooking dinner and watching the sunset from above the
clouds. Since we were planning to ski
down, it wasn’t necessary for an early ascent so we set our alarms for 5am and
hit the bags. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Summit pic</div>
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In the morning we watched the sunrise and casually had
breakfast while getting our gear together.
It was 7am when we left camp and the day was looking amazing. Light winds and blue skies. The snow was still firm so we put our crampon
on and started up. One foot in front of
the other, we slowly made out was up.
Sections of the climb were steep and the guide services had fixed ropes,
but overall it was pretty chill hiking.
After many small steps, and a few crevasse crossings, we found ourselves
at the summit crater. It was a short
distance to the summit and soon we were standing on top. The slight breeze on top had a bite to it so
we quickly clicked into our skies and dropped it to a more sheltered position. After a quick bite, the fun began.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Blake skiing the top of the cleaver</div>
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The snow up high was a bit icy, but still soft enough to get
an edge in. Since the slopes weren’t too
steep, it made for some really fun skiing.
We worked our way down the variable snow, crossing crevasses and
following our ascent trail. Icy sections
gave way to soft snow and we occasionally got some excellent turns in. Eventually we made it to a spot where we felt
it safer to boot down towards a more mellow section. Once near the Ingram flats, we clicked back
in and continued our ski descent back to camp.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ben sneaking through the rocks</div>
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Once at camp we all refueled with some food, water and took
a nap. Eventually we broke down camp and
started the next section back to the car.
The Muir snowfields were a blast.
We casually made turns having a blast all the way back to the car and the
warm temps. We got back down in the
early evening and enjoyed some cold beers before beginning the journey home. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It was nice to finally stand on top of that mountain and
wonderful to have descended on skies.
After being shut down by weather so many times, it was nice to finally
get a break. 5<sup>th</sup> time’s a
charm….<o:p></o:p></div>
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Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-77792358662582817382013-05-22T07:15:00.000-07:002013-05-22T07:15:34.591-07:00Tanzania<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So I just got back from a month in Tanzania and it was amazing!!! Possibly not everyones cup of tea, but I sure enjoyed my time there. It was a crazy experience to be the minority, unsafe in certain areas and at other times, wined and dined. For the most part, everyone we met were incredibly wonderful people. Very helpful and fun to hang out with.</div>
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Rob and I pretty much worked for 3 weeks straight with a few free days at the end. We were busy teaching wilderness first aid and wilderness first responder courses for the first two weeks then spent the next on Kilimanjaro helping out with guide training. While the guides were doing their thing, Rob and I were running medical scenarios to challenge them. Despite horrible weather on the mountain, we still had a great time. Due to the weather though, our time was rushed and we tagged the summit the morning of our third day. The rapid ascent hurt a little due to altitude, but overall I was very happy with how my body responded. </div>
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After the mountain, Rob and I quickly organized gear and then repacked for safari. One of our students who is a hunting guide, invited us to his camp near the Serengeti. This was one of the best experiences of my life. The 6 hour drive to camp, tours around camp, and the drive back were filled with most of the animals I have seen in National Geographic and Masai people. It was truly a spectacular scene. One that I feel everyone should get a chance to see in there lives.</div>
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-25673927572811210952013-03-05T18:09:00.003-07:002013-03-05T18:09:21.085-07:00Wing Suit Flying<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
A photo from this morning.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Jeff Shapiro</div>
Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-23306921592150044762013-02-21T10:02:00.000-07:002013-02-21T10:02:03.228-07:00Glacier Ice Climbing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The weather window was small, but Ben and I decided to check it out anyways. Our plan was to ski into Snyder Lake basin and climb "6 pack" to the summit of Mt. Edwards. I had done the climb about 8 years ago and knew it would take us two days. As we began our ski in, we quickly realized the area had receive a lot of new snow and that the idea of climbing on Edwards would be a bad one. When we reached the lakes and our campsite, we could see signs of natural avalanches all throughout the basin. Our hopes to climb Mt. Edwards were shut down, but we had a back up plan...brainstem wall.</div>
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The brainstem wall is in a slightly less hazardous location and the climbs were in good shape. We set camp and prepared for a cold night. We woke to clear skies hungry to climb. We started by working on a new route. I climbed the first pitch only to be shut down by loose rock and poor protection. As we were setting an anchor, the sun came out and the south side of Mt. Brown came alive. Small slides came shooting over us at shot regular intervals. We waited for a fair bit of snow to release then made our descent. We made it back to the packs without a problem. </div>
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As high clouds moved over Glacier, I decided to climb Brainstem. It was in amazing shape. The left side was touching down creating 50m of vertical ice. It was one of the best pitches I've climbed. I threaded off the climb and we packed up to head home. Ski conditions were great so the ski out was actually an enjoyment. Back to the car early, we made our way to Whitefish for dinner and drinks with friends. </div>
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Brainstem </div>
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Assessing pitch 2 </div>
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Watching clouds roll in the basin </div>
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The approach </div>
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Left side of the Brainstem wall</div>
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Ben starting the approach </div>
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Pitch one</div>
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Little Matterhorn</div>
Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-15340350077957138552013-02-06T09:54:00.002-07:002013-02-06T09:54:13.214-07:00Designs by Jessica <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Again I finally followed through on another project. For awhile I've wanted to get images of my friend Jessica's hand crafted jewelry. She has beautiful pieces and I wanted to try and capture that. The other night she brought by her most recent work and I gave it a try to highlight her work. I'm pleased with what we got. You can find her work around Missoula or at www.idreamincolorjewelry.blogspot.com. </div>
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-10812212154452755442013-02-06T09:48:00.000-07:002013-02-06T09:48:44.115-07:00French Inhale<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On the 14th, Bethany and Caitlin have a show in town and were looking for some images they could display and cycle through in the background while they preform their aerial silk. They had the idea of "french inhale". It wasn't as easy as we thought it would be so these images are what we came up with instead. I'm excited to see how it all comes together at the show.</div>
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-45571793720160108782013-02-06T09:41:00.001-07:002013-02-06T09:41:26.830-07:00Aerial Silk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After talking about it for about a year, I finally grabbed my camera equipment and took some pics of my friends Bethany and Caitlin performing their aerial silk. They were in the climbing gym practicing so I thought it would be a good opportunity for a trial run. When the temps warm up again, we will take it outside and hopeful capture some unique images.</div>
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6157140584759157210.post-47801887357381869572013-02-06T09:36:00.000-07:002013-02-06T09:36:26.933-07:00Outdoor Retailer Show<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After 3 years of wanting to get into the OR show it finally happened. Within a few hours however, I wanted out. It is a neat show with every company you could imagine and all the right people to meet, but totally overwhelming. I felt like a little kid being drug around a mall with their mother. Too many people and too much stimulus. Quickly I wanted to leave and go climbing rather than talk climbing. Ben and I put in our time, made some good contacts and saw the latest and greatest products. </div>
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Hearing that Maple Canyon ice was in, we skipped out on the 2nd day of the show and went climbing. It was a great break and a beautiful place to experience. Temps were warm and the ice was quickly disappearing but we managed to squeak in two climbs before returning to Salt Lake.</div>
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Saturday we spend a half day at the show saying our thanks and good byes to folks we met. After that it was a quick drive up Big Cottonwood Canyon with Ben and Nick for a little side-country tour. We spent the afternoon touring the side-country and getting some nice turns in. After some dinner that evening, Ben and I motivated for the drive back dot Missoula....big mistake! We rolled into Missoula around 3am completely strung out on red bull wanting nothing more than our beds. It was a rough drive. </div>
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<br />Chris Gibischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02538907065913320288noreply@blogger.com0