Working on New Stuff

Yesterday Justin, his roommate Dan, and I slogged into the Missions with hopes of establishing a new route. We were eyeing an overhanging rock roof between Whispering Left and Center. We had a drill, but hoped to climb it on natural gear.

After a good effort to make the line go natural, we deemed it too unsafe to climb without bolts. We had the bolts at our side, but weren't motivated from the extremely wet conditions the weather was giving us. Justin worked his way through a hole in the ice and finished the pitch.

Whispering Left and Center

We rapped off and decided we ought to get one more pitch in since we were there. I led Whispering Center which was in great shape. A good steep 60m grade 5. We finished the day feeling content with our efforts and made hast to the 44 bar.

Hyalite Ice

Monday Jeff and I headed back to Hyalite Canyon with expectations of working ourselves over on some ice. We had plans of pushing our leash-less climbing abilities so we headed right for the business. Last time I led "Airborne Ranger", this time it was Jeff's lead. Extremely cold temps made the ice brittle and very thought provoking to climb. Through delicate climbing with frozen hands, we topped out on the pillar. A short pitch took us to the top and reminded me how tired I actually was. The day was coming to an end, so it was time to rap off and find something to eat.

Jeff starting up Airborne Ranger

Tuesday we headed up to the Bingo cave. This area hold some of the most difficult dry-tooling routes in the canyon. Rather than pump ourselves out right away, we decided to warm up on the "Good Looking One". We made two laps on it, each being extremely fun. We were feeling the workout from the day before, but still decided to give the cave a go. As was expected, it worked us over and finished off the burn in our arms.

Mid pitch

With a half day remaining before heading home Wednesday, Jeff and I headed back to the canyon for one last climb. Some other parties beat us to the climb we wanted, so it was off to an old favorite; "The Scepter". We made short work of it, but were definitely reminded of our previous days work. Feeling totally sapped, we packed up and headed home.

Jeff topping out

Jeff starting up the "Good Looking One"

Deep Snow and Cold Temps

Wednesday, a big weather system hit Montana bringing with it cold temps and lots of snow. Knowing avalanche conditions would be bad, we headed to Lolo Pass Thursday. The snow was deep and cold temps made the snow soft.

Friday the temps were forecasted to be even colder, around 0 degrees. Knowing nearly no one would brave the cold, Patrick and I headed back to the pass. The snow had set up even better and the shinning sun took the edge off the cold air. We found a place away from anyone else and enjoyed untouched powder all day long.

Bob charging Thursday

Patrick

Patrick

A bad hore-frost layer 2' deep

Bozeman Ice

4:30am Tuesday morning, my alarm clock started blaring. Jeff and I had made plan to day-trip Hyalite canyon for ice climbing. Hyalite is near Bozeman, 3 hours away, so a long drive plus a full day of climbing, meant leaving Missoula around 5:30am. Lots of coffee got us ready for the day. Ben told us of a climb we should try, so we headed straight for it. When we reached the base, another party was already there. They were extremely nice, so we just coordinated our climbs.

Me climbing Airborne Ranger

There were two climbs to try; Cleopatra's Needle (WI4+/5) and Airborne Ranger (WI6). All of us were there to climb both, but the other party started on Cleo's first. This meant straight to the business for us. A short pitch lead us to a cave to belay in. Then we looked up at the pillar. It was steep and chandeliery. We were both very intimidated, but there was a weakness up it. We took turns himming and hawwing about it and before I new it, I was climbing. A look became an attempt.

Jeff steeping out for a look

Temps were about 10 degrees so the ice was brittle. The beginning was delicate, but the ice got better the higher I got. Eventually the tool placements got good as did the screws. Unfortunately at this point I was getting very pumped. Smart climbing allowed me to reach the top without blowing it. Jeff came up, took the lead, and got us to the top.

We rapped off, but still had some daylight. With the remaining time, we climbed Cleo's. That maxed out our daylight. We got down and packed up just as darkness reached us. An enjoyable dark walk got us back to the car and the beginning of our journey home.

Jeff taking a look at Airborne Ranger

Lolo Pass Skiing

Monday morning I awoke to 8" of new snow on the driveway. Jeff, Ben and I had planned to climb, but conditions looked too good not to ski instead. After a few quick calls are plans were changed. We headed to Lolo Pass for a convenient backcountry option. The temps were cold and the snow was soft. We spent the day touring around working our legs and getting fresh powder turns.

More Ice Cragging

Tuesday, Jeff and I headed back to the Mission Mountains for another day of cragging. With recent warm temps, we figured the road would be in better shape, but weren't sure what condition the ice was in. Monday had rained hard, but we thought there was enough ice to withstand it. The road and trail turned out to be in great shape, but the sight of the ice was disappointing. Much of what was there the previous Friday had either melted away or fell down.

A closer look revealed that everything that was still standing was running with water. Our motivation faded away even further. We were there to climb though, and had hiked the 2 miles in. We could deal with getting wet and cold for at least one climb.

Shapiro checking out the line

I harnessed some screws and started up. A dry line appeared on the far left side of the ice, but it was difficult to assess from the ground. As I climbed, everything looked dry. At least where I was. On either side of me was running water. I worked my way up the ice getting wet only for a moment. The route was fun, but seemed to be the only dry line in the area. We rapped off and called it quits.

Cooler temps have reached Missoula now, so hopefully the ice will start to fill in again.

The route (just left of center)

Mission Falls

Friday Justin Woods, Jeff Shapiro, and myself put in the effort and broke trail to Mission Falls. The adventure began on the road where deep snow conditions had shut down all previous attempts to reach the trailhead. With a very skilled yet reckless looking approach, Justin rallied his rig without a doubt in his mind we would make it to the trailhead. After charging the road like 16 year old punks driving in the snow for the first time, we reached the trailhead.

Jeff and I racking up

We packed up and hit the trail. Trail breaking was slow in the knee to thigh deep snow, but we pushed on to the climbs. First sight of the ice revealed everything was formed. With plans on getting milage in, we headed for the Whispering Ice area.

Jeff on Whispering Center

Jeff lead up Whispering Center which was in great steep conditions. After that, we moved over to Whispering Left which had a nice curtain touching down. Another lap on steep ice and we were done. The day was coming to an end and we still had to hike out.

Myself starting up Whispering Left

Headlamps showed the way and we enjoyed the dark peaceful walk out. The return trip down the road was mellow and shortly after, we were on our way for a burger and a beer.

Starting the curtain on Whispering Left