New Route Attempt

Last week Jeff and I found ourselves working our way up a trail we were all too familiar with. Once again we were heading into the Snyder Lake basin to attempt another new route on the North Face of Mt. Edward. The weather wasn't holding true to the forecast and heavy cloud cover with slight snow obscured most of the face. However, it was stable and climbing conditions were acceptable.

We approached the face watching the occasional slide rush down the mountain. Just spindrift slid, the major snowpack was stable. At the base of the route, we could occasionally see through breaks in the clouds. The ice looked good and we started climbing immediately.

As expected, the ice was steeper than appeared. After a slight burn in the arms I was at a suitable belay stance. Jeff came up and quickly started the next lead. The climbing was going great. Good ice and favorable temps made progress quick. Jeff was nearing the top when skies opened up for a moment. Finally some sun. Then I noticed spindrift off to the side of us. Suddenly, the entire blue sky above me became white. It came down in slow motion and I was mesmerized by the swirling snow caused by upward wind gusts. Was this spindrift or a real avalanche? Will it shoot over us? What ever it was, it looked big and looked like it would hit us. "Avalanche, hang on!" I ducked under the pack, clinched my break hand, and waited for impact. Light snow pounded us. Eventually it ended and with no tension on the rope, I figured Jeff was ok. I looked up and saw him start to climb again....game on.

He reached a nice belay and brought me up. Now we were under the business, rock leading to hanging daggers. Temps were warm though and the ice barely attached. I climbed up about 30 feet to take a closer look, but conditions looked too dangerous to continue. It was time to bail. We made hast to minimize our exposure to the enormous daggers. At the base we dug out our packs and quickly headed down slope to our skies. The slide had taken out one of Jeff's skies, but luckily we found it quickly.

On the ski out we heard some other major slides and agreed we made the right decision to leave. The route will have to wait till another time.

Jeff starting up pitch 2

Punked in the Park

As usual this Winter, Justin and I had plans to climb and the weather wasn't cooperating. Our objectives were in East Glacier where the weather can be horrendous. As we approached the park, we could see that the entire place was engulfed in a storm. The wind was blowing and the temps were bitter. On the verge of bailing, we threw our stuff together and began the approach.

This is the point where Justin and I always get pissed off. We now had to ski 7 miles of road to reach the Many Glacier hotel. 4 of which were outside of the park. How the hell is that an accessible public National Park. I don't buy a park pass every year for 4 months of access. I know most people don't care for the park in Winter , but I would like to continue to have access to one of this nation's most beautiful places. I guess I'm just a minority. Enough ranting now.

The approach into the park

The approach wasn't too bad, but our packs kind of broke us down. The hotel deck offered a nice dry place to camp so we stopped there. We set up camp and settled in for the night.

Lounging on the deck

In the morning we woke to whiteout conditions completely shutting down our climbing plans. After a slow start we decided to go on a tour and take a look at things. Weather remained poor, but it was still nice to experience the park when no one was around. On our way back to camp, we ditched some gear with plans of climbing the next day before we left.

Back to camp on day 2

Doing what is necessary to keep the toes warm

When we got up the next morning, the sky was clear, but the temps were bitterly cold. Once again, no climbing. The decision was made to quickly get our gear and then head for the car. After using the stove to thaw our boots out, we on our way to gather our gear. Despite the cold temps, the park was stunning. It is always nice to hang out in the park regardless of conditions.

Morning of day 3

Justin at the gear cache

The ski out was uneventful. The wind and cold temps plagued us the entire way, but we knew it wouldn't last forever. The car and cold beer weren't too far away.

One last look before heading home

Same Old Routine

My work schedule and the weather pattern have not been matching up this Winter and it is starting to drive me crazy. The few blue skies we've seen around Missoula have occurred while I've been working and when I'm off, its either snowing or raining.

I've tried to make the most of my time though. Saturday, I managed a short but sweet day out at Finley ice climbing where I met some nice folks. Other than that I've mainly been working and playing around with my camera. I bought a new flash so I've been learning how to better take pictures using a speedlight. I also started helping Shapiro sew hang glider harnesses. That has actually been fun. It reminds me of working at the bike shop. Great company and no bullshit.

Other than that, its been the same old routine, hospital work and training for the day the weather grants me permission to the big mountains.

Staying Positive

Last weekend Justin Woods and I planned on heading to Glacier for a possible long day. We had been itching for a long route and conditions looked like they could be good. However, I had to go and screw everything up. While out skiing Saturday, I tagged a snow covered stump which quickly put my face down in the snow. During the crash, my right ski tried to continue down its path right while my body twisted left. The twisting force put on my right knee was incredible. Having "blown out" my knees before, I waited for the "pop". Everything came to a stop and nothing. My knee was sore, but no ligaments had torn. I got up and skied back to the snowmobile knowing that I was going to be sore the next day.

Justin working the Mule Palace

I awoke with a very stiff knee. Struggling with the idea of not climbing in Glacier, I had to call Justin and give him the disappointing news. I was feeling good enough for a local trip to Finley Creek so that is what we ended up planning on.

Monday, with my knee feeling better, we hiked into Finley. What we saw was disappointing. The recent warm weather had done a number in the ice. With hopes of getting a workout, we settled with doing laps on a bolted mixed climb which can be climbed in nearly any condition.

We ended up having a nice day out there. Chucked a few laps and got a bit of a pump. Turned out to be a better day than we anticipated. It was no Glacier Park though......

My turn

Working on New Stuff

Yesterday Justin, his roommate Dan, and I slogged into the Missions with hopes of establishing a new route. We were eyeing an overhanging rock roof between Whispering Left and Center. We had a drill, but hoped to climb it on natural gear.

After a good effort to make the line go natural, we deemed it too unsafe to climb without bolts. We had the bolts at our side, but weren't motivated from the extremely wet conditions the weather was giving us. Justin worked his way through a hole in the ice and finished the pitch.

Whispering Left and Center

We rapped off and decided we ought to get one more pitch in since we were there. I led Whispering Center which was in great shape. A good steep 60m grade 5. We finished the day feeling content with our efforts and made hast to the 44 bar.

Hyalite Ice

Monday Jeff and I headed back to Hyalite Canyon with expectations of working ourselves over on some ice. We had plans of pushing our leash-less climbing abilities so we headed right for the business. Last time I led "Airborne Ranger", this time it was Jeff's lead. Extremely cold temps made the ice brittle and very thought provoking to climb. Through delicate climbing with frozen hands, we topped out on the pillar. A short pitch took us to the top and reminded me how tired I actually was. The day was coming to an end, so it was time to rap off and find something to eat.

Jeff starting up Airborne Ranger

Tuesday we headed up to the Bingo cave. This area hold some of the most difficult dry-tooling routes in the canyon. Rather than pump ourselves out right away, we decided to warm up on the "Good Looking One". We made two laps on it, each being extremely fun. We were feeling the workout from the day before, but still decided to give the cave a go. As was expected, it worked us over and finished off the burn in our arms.

Mid pitch

With a half day remaining before heading home Wednesday, Jeff and I headed back to the canyon for one last climb. Some other parties beat us to the climb we wanted, so it was off to an old favorite; "The Scepter". We made short work of it, but were definitely reminded of our previous days work. Feeling totally sapped, we packed up and headed home.

Jeff topping out

Jeff starting up the "Good Looking One"

Deep Snow and Cold Temps

Wednesday, a big weather system hit Montana bringing with it cold temps and lots of snow. Knowing avalanche conditions would be bad, we headed to Lolo Pass Thursday. The snow was deep and cold temps made the snow soft.

Friday the temps were forecasted to be even colder, around 0 degrees. Knowing nearly no one would brave the cold, Patrick and I headed back to the pass. The snow had set up even better and the shinning sun took the edge off the cold air. We found a place away from anyone else and enjoyed untouched powder all day long.

Bob charging Thursday

Patrick

Patrick

A bad hore-frost layer 2' deep