Hard at Work

The weather has been difficult in Missoula recently. We are still getting the occasional snow storm in the valley and the mountains are getting pounded with snow. It seems as if Winter doesn't want to quit. Due to the poor weather, I've been spending most of my time working, either at the hospital or at Shapiro's producing harnesses. Here are some pics from a recent one we finished.

Attempted Ski Traverse

Last weekend Patrick and I headed into Glacier with hopes of ski traversing from West to East. Weather was looking great despite an iffy forecast. It took us about 4 hours to get to Sperry chalet where we set up camp on the second story deck. Weather appeared to be moving in so we crawled in the tent for the night. Temps were moderate and the camping was chill.

In the morning we woke to low overcast skies. With poor visibility, we packed up and left for Lincoln Pass. It was a short distance away, but by the time we got there we were in white-out conditions. Conditions for snow travel were great, but we had no view of the incredible scenery we were surrounded by. Motivation plummeted and we decided to leave this trip for another time when the weather was better.

The ski out was uneventful and we were back at the car in a short while. Another trip cursed by bad weather. Oh well, just have to keep trying. Soon the skies will open up.

Camp on the second story deck

Home sweet home

Lincoln Pass

Wedding Shoot

At the beginning of the month I had the honor of being the photographer for my friends Mike and Angie's wedding. Being my first wedding, it was the most challenging and intimidating times I've ever had shooting pics. The lighting was extremely difficult and I was terrified that I wasn't going to be able to capture the moment well. Fortunately the event was a blast and I had a great time celebrating with friends. I did the best I could giving the challenging situation and came away from the experience happy with what I got.

New Route Attempt

Last week Jeff and I found ourselves working our way up a trail we were all too familiar with. Once again we were heading into the Snyder Lake basin to attempt another new route on the North Face of Mt. Edward. The weather wasn't holding true to the forecast and heavy cloud cover with slight snow obscured most of the face. However, it was stable and climbing conditions were acceptable.

We approached the face watching the occasional slide rush down the mountain. Just spindrift slid, the major snowpack was stable. At the base of the route, we could occasionally see through breaks in the clouds. The ice looked good and we started climbing immediately.

As expected, the ice was steeper than appeared. After a slight burn in the arms I was at a suitable belay stance. Jeff came up and quickly started the next lead. The climbing was going great. Good ice and favorable temps made progress quick. Jeff was nearing the top when skies opened up for a moment. Finally some sun. Then I noticed spindrift off to the side of us. Suddenly, the entire blue sky above me became white. It came down in slow motion and I was mesmerized by the swirling snow caused by upward wind gusts. Was this spindrift or a real avalanche? Will it shoot over us? What ever it was, it looked big and looked like it would hit us. "Avalanche, hang on!" I ducked under the pack, clinched my break hand, and waited for impact. Light snow pounded us. Eventually it ended and with no tension on the rope, I figured Jeff was ok. I looked up and saw him start to climb again....game on.

He reached a nice belay and brought me up. Now we were under the business, rock leading to hanging daggers. Temps were warm though and the ice barely attached. I climbed up about 30 feet to take a closer look, but conditions looked too dangerous to continue. It was time to bail. We made hast to minimize our exposure to the enormous daggers. At the base we dug out our packs and quickly headed down slope to our skies. The slide had taken out one of Jeff's skies, but luckily we found it quickly.

On the ski out we heard some other major slides and agreed we made the right decision to leave. The route will have to wait till another time.

Jeff starting up pitch 2

Punked in the Park

As usual this Winter, Justin and I had plans to climb and the weather wasn't cooperating. Our objectives were in East Glacier where the weather can be horrendous. As we approached the park, we could see that the entire place was engulfed in a storm. The wind was blowing and the temps were bitter. On the verge of bailing, we threw our stuff together and began the approach.

This is the point where Justin and I always get pissed off. We now had to ski 7 miles of road to reach the Many Glacier hotel. 4 of which were outside of the park. How the hell is that an accessible public National Park. I don't buy a park pass every year for 4 months of access. I know most people don't care for the park in Winter , but I would like to continue to have access to one of this nation's most beautiful places. I guess I'm just a minority. Enough ranting now.

The approach into the park

The approach wasn't too bad, but our packs kind of broke us down. The hotel deck offered a nice dry place to camp so we stopped there. We set up camp and settled in for the night.

Lounging on the deck

In the morning we woke to whiteout conditions completely shutting down our climbing plans. After a slow start we decided to go on a tour and take a look at things. Weather remained poor, but it was still nice to experience the park when no one was around. On our way back to camp, we ditched some gear with plans of climbing the next day before we left.

Back to camp on day 2

Doing what is necessary to keep the toes warm

When we got up the next morning, the sky was clear, but the temps were bitterly cold. Once again, no climbing. The decision was made to quickly get our gear and then head for the car. After using the stove to thaw our boots out, we on our way to gather our gear. Despite the cold temps, the park was stunning. It is always nice to hang out in the park regardless of conditions.

Morning of day 3

Justin at the gear cache

The ski out was uneventful. The wind and cold temps plagued us the entire way, but we knew it wouldn't last forever. The car and cold beer weren't too far away.

One last look before heading home

Same Old Routine

My work schedule and the weather pattern have not been matching up this Winter and it is starting to drive me crazy. The few blue skies we've seen around Missoula have occurred while I've been working and when I'm off, its either snowing or raining.

I've tried to make the most of my time though. Saturday, I managed a short but sweet day out at Finley ice climbing where I met some nice folks. Other than that I've mainly been working and playing around with my camera. I bought a new flash so I've been learning how to better take pictures using a speedlight. I also started helping Shapiro sew hang glider harnesses. That has actually been fun. It reminds me of working at the bike shop. Great company and no bullshit.

Other than that, its been the same old routine, hospital work and training for the day the weather grants me permission to the big mountains.

Staying Positive

Last weekend Justin Woods and I planned on heading to Glacier for a possible long day. We had been itching for a long route and conditions looked like they could be good. However, I had to go and screw everything up. While out skiing Saturday, I tagged a snow covered stump which quickly put my face down in the snow. During the crash, my right ski tried to continue down its path right while my body twisted left. The twisting force put on my right knee was incredible. Having "blown out" my knees before, I waited for the "pop". Everything came to a stop and nothing. My knee was sore, but no ligaments had torn. I got up and skied back to the snowmobile knowing that I was going to be sore the next day.

Justin working the Mule Palace

I awoke with a very stiff knee. Struggling with the idea of not climbing in Glacier, I had to call Justin and give him the disappointing news. I was feeling good enough for a local trip to Finley Creek so that is what we ended up planning on.

Monday, with my knee feeling better, we hiked into Finley. What we saw was disappointing. The recent warm weather had done a number in the ice. With hopes of getting a workout, we settled with doing laps on a bolted mixed climb which can be climbed in nearly any condition.

We ended up having a nice day out there. Chucked a few laps and got a bit of a pump. Turned out to be a better day than we anticipated. It was no Glacier Park though......

My turn