Saturday, December 5, 2009
Ben Brunsvold called me and had left a message that he would be in Bozeman on his way to Jackson. He was looking for someone to climb with. Perfect! Ben has less experience than me, but great energy and is always into an adventure. He was up for it.
As I neared Ben, "Fuck!" echoed through the canyon. I looked over to the ridge and saw three Bozeman guys. We had beat them to it. None of us ever imagined that two different parties would be gunning for this route on the same day. And a Wednesday of all days. Too bad I thought and headed up the next pitch.
I had never attempted a WI6+/7- pitch before. I knew it would be difficult, but figured I would place as much gear as possible to make it as safe as I could make it. As it turned out, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. A series of difficult/awkward sections followed by rests. Eventually I reached the belay and set an anchor.
Saturday, November 28, 2009
First climbed in '97 by Alex Lowe and Jim Earl, it has since seen only a number of ascents. In 2007 White Magro freed the bolt ladder allowing the climb to go entirely free; M8, WI 6+.
Tuesday night, Jeff and I were preparing for a trip to Glacier National Park. A last minute Internet check changed our minds. A post on a climbing forum said that Winter Dance was in great shape and the weather was looking good for Wednesday. Bozeman it was!
We left Missoula at 3:00am hoping to start hiking by day break. It was a long shot to try day tripping this climb from Missoula, but worth a shot. It was 10:00am when we reached the base after 2.5 hours of hiking. We racked the gear and Jeff headed up the first pitch. It turned out to be much trickier than either of us had expected. By the time I reached Jeff it was noon. With 3 hard pitches left an only about 4.5 hours of day light remaining, we knew we had been too slow.
Myself mid-way, pitch 2
There was no need to bail immediately with the time we had, so we decided to at least climb the next pitch. This was the bolt ladder White had freed at M8. The bolts are close and safe so its worth trying to free. I hung in the opening roof to figure out the move, but eventually worked my way through it. The climbing eases a bit but I was forced to rest again at the next bulge. From there it was to the anchor. From this position, I was directly next to the ice and could take a good look at it. It appeared very tricky but manageable. Unfortunately this was our high point.
The sun began to bake the ice making Jeff and I uneasy about our position. We rapped off with hopes of returning soon.
Friday, November 20, 2009
The temps actually turned out to be quite pleasant. A slight breeze forced us to keep jackets on, but for the most part, we were warm.
It was nice to be climbing with Jeff again. We hadn't climbed together in a long time and even though Shoshone isn't a challenge, it was still a fun adventure in winter conditions.
Friday, October 23, 2009
Wednesday, some friends planned on going to the Boulder Point fire lookout cabin to make sure it was winter ready. We needed to get some fire wood together and make sure it was sealed up good. When we got there, it was obvious that the forest service had done some work to the structure and it was looking great. The West Fork Ski Club had also done a great job throughout the summer keeping the place clean. Also to our surprise, somebody had already done the hard work of getting fire wood together. There really wasn't much for us to do but enjoy the lookout and drink some beer.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Aperture priority, ISO 400, F18, Flash -3.0, Auto WB, Spot meter